Neither East Nor West : One Woman's Journey Through the Islamic Republic of Iran

by Christiane Bird

Release Date: 01 February, 2002

Edition: Paperback

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Neither East Nor West

In some ways this might be described as a middle class travel guide to Iran. I say this because of the obvious differance between this book and one endorsed on the review page earlier called Honeymoon in Purdah (please see my review of that book) which to me was a more informal expedition/book. I feel in some ways Ms. Bird got a more realistic impression of Iran and Iranians, though I can't really fault either author. These are a very complex people whom I felt after 3 1/2 years of intimate association with them that I knew a LITTLE bit about, so am impressed that these two women learned so much about them in so little time. This book is very well researched and written and is a good source to learn about Iranian history, culture and it's people. I was very gratified to learn that Amrikayeh is not a univeral swear word in Iran, reading these books makes me want to go back.

Neither East, Nor West

"I went to Iran to flirt with my childhood. I went to Iran to court the unknown. I went to Iran to see the effects of the Islamic Revolution for myself." Thus, begins Christiane Bird's engrossing journey through today's Iran. As Bird notes, "Pre-or post-Islamic revoution Iran has always been a cipher to the West." Indeed, much of what Americans know about Iran is from the political headlines of the 1980s and the dour picture that emerged from them. In this very readable book, Bird demystifies this fascinating country. Bird, who spent some of her early childhood in Iran in the 1960s, returned to view this politically changed land through adult eyes. She walks us through the streets filled with shrouded women, through bazaars where merchants wield financial and political power, through religious shrines teeming with pilgrims, and through cities and small villages where we glimpse the everyday lives of Iranian families. As she travels around this complex country, we learn about how Iranians have adapted to some of the more restrictive changes brought about by the revolution. For example, we learn how they cope with and often circumvent the "Big Brother" watchfulness of the Ministry of Culture and Islamic Guidance which monitors the media, tourism, education, and just about all aspects of Iranian life. As Bird points out, "Every Iranian lives in two worlds--the public and the private. The public is for wearing dark colors, obeying the laws of Islamic society and generally presenting a serious and pious face to the world. The private is for wearing bright colors, laughing and socializing with family and friends, and quiet contemplation and prayer." It's interesting to note that the private, particularly in middle and upper class families in large cities, sometimes includes watching banned TV shows, wearing miniskirts, drinking alcohol and even criticizing the government. Along the way, Bird introduces us to the variety of Iranians--shopkeepers, housewives, university students, ayatollahs, religious pilgrims, bathhouse keepers. As she explores the historical, political and cultural landscape, she paints vivid pictures--a congested downtown Mashad, the "gray, worn town" of Sanandaj, a colorful wedding in a Kurdish village, the religious center of Qom. Neither East Nor West offers insightful glimpses into Iran, well beyond the stereotypes we've all been accustomed to think in. It's a great read for the traveler, the armchair traveler, and anyone who is interested in this part of the world.