The Seasons of Rome : A Journal

by Paul Hofmann

Release Date: 15 March, 1999

Edition: Paperback

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A Vibrant Patchwork of Impressions

This is old-school journalism at its best. Hofmann takes the year as it comes, and, journal style, writes a few sketches every month. Having lived in Rome for thirty years, he knows a lot about it, and he draws on his wealth of information, memory, impressions, and connections to give vivid pictures of the holidays that roll around or reflections prompted by chance events. His range is delightful -- from the pope to Vespa-riding robbers, from diplomats to gypsies, from horse shows to opera, from the mafia to the gattare [stray cat feeders]. If he needs statistics, he knows how to get them and unobtrusively adds them. He is not coy about using addresses, so I read with a map. I knew little about Rome when I began this book, but by the end I felt I knew where things were, what the flavor of the city is. It's not a travel guide, it's deep background for a visit.

Finally! A Travelogue About the Real Rome

Paul Hofmann writes about his hometown the way any native would, with equal parts admiration and frustration. Sure, he describes the great trattorie, touches on the sordid histories of Rome's luxury hotels, and is continually mesmerized by the city's ancient ruins. But, anecdotes about such topics as the irregularity of the postman's visits, motorino pollution, municipal strikes, and lousy restaurant service, make the book come alive. Thank god this isn't another tired, old, tourist piece about how great it is to live abroad ("A Year in Provence," anyone?) Hofmann's grouping of chapters by month is also innovative and helpful to travelers who want to know what goes on in the city the REST of the year. The book tends to be a bit dull in some places, owing probably to the fact that Hofmann wrote this book in his 70s or 80s. He knows little about hip, modern Rome. Nevertheless, his "diary" makes for a good read and a good history lesson.